#Embroidery patterns free easy how to

Tuck the cut end inside the loop and pull taut. Then pick up the ends opposite the needle and tie a single knot in the end.To do this, create a loop by passing the cut end over the attached end. Do this a few times to unravel the strands. Run your fingers down the thread from the needle to the end. Pull about 4″ (10cm) of the thread through the eye and fold it back on itself, ready for stitching. Many people like to use a needle threading device too, especially if the thread and needle are fine. If the thread doesn’t want to cooperate, wet the tip of the thread ends first and pinch them between your finger tips. Then thread your needle by pushing the trimmed floss ends though the eye (or hole). Ensure the eye of your needle is large enough to accomodate the number of threads you have. Trim the floss ends with sharp embroidery scissors for a crisp finish. To separate them, tease the strands apart from the whole floss length, and then gently peel them away.

If you’re unsure, use two or three strands of floss and set the remainder aside. If using 6 stranded embroidery floss, separate the threads to the number outlined in your pattern. We explore that in more detail in the Embroidery for Beginners post. This is a great tip if you’re just getting started and don’t have a tape measure on hand! Some people suggest using the length from your elbow to your finger tips as a guide. 18″ (45cm) to 20″ (50cm) is a good length to work with. Cut a length of your chosen floss colour. Select a needle for stitching (learn more about needles HERE). Tighten the screw, gently tugging the fabric as you go, so that the hooped fabric is taut. Place the outer ring (with the screw) over the top of the inner ring and manoeuvre the fabric around until it is centred in the hoop and the screw is positioned at the top. Place the inner ring on a flat surface and centre your fabric over the ring. Loosen the screw at the top of your timber embroidery hoop and separate the two rings. Once the design is traced onto your fabric, it’s time to prepare it for stitching. Position The Fabric In An Embroidery Hoop There are lots of pens available for transferring designs and I explore a few of the options and my favourite transfer methods in more detail in this post. Use your favourite method to transfer your embroidery design to the front or right side of your fabric.

Then ensure it is well pressed and crease free, ready for stitching. You may wish to trim the fabric with pinking shears (or zig zag scissors) to prevent the fabric from fraying. Cut the interfacing or stabiliser to be just slightly smaller than the fabric.īelow you can see the folded interfacing and then a single layer of it secured to the wrong side of a square of linen. Stabilise the back or wrong side of your fabric using a woven, light weight, fusible interfacing that is designed for embroidery. This will give you enough excess to keep your fabric firmly in the hoop. Alternatively, choose a hoop about 2″ (5cm) wider than your embroidery design and then cut your fabric to be another 4″ (10cm) larger than the hoop. Cut the fabric size as suggested for your project pattern. (We discuss fabrics and stabiliser in this POST). And it looks really effective! Prepare Your Fabricįirst things first! If you have a design in mind to sew, then it’s time to select your fabric. It’s a great way to practice the different stitch types without having to change your floss colour. You could try it in different colourways. If you’re looking for a beginner friendly project to stitch, sign up to my newsletter to receive this free embroidery pattern. But how do you actually start stitching? Let’s go through the basics, step by step.

#Embroidery patterns free easy how to

In the last posts we looked at all the supplies you will need to get stitching and how to transfer your design to fabric. Welcome to part three of my Beginner’s Tutorials for Embroidery.